From Cape Breton we traveled south to New Glasgow then Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia.
The New Glasgow campground, Cranberry, had over 80% seasonal occupants. The water was undrinkable, too salty. Owners said it was a new well. Non-existent wifi. The worst part was the unrelenting number of mosquitos. They had not sprayed for mosquitos in awhile. Even in a strong wind and wearing mosquito repellant, it was impossible to go outside without getting bitten. Wearing a long sleeve shirt and bluejeans didn’t matter since we were bitten right through them. Even though West Nile virus is present in Canada, only about 100 cases were reported in 2016. We heavily relied on our Executioner for those that got inside the RV.
Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia
We had a great site overlooking the ocean. One of the best ocean view stays we had in Nova Scotia. They had 30 amp service, intermittent wifi, and only a dump station, but for that view it was worth it.
We had site 26. Enjoyed watching sea gulls, cormorants and a seal.
Driving around Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia was stunning. Picture perfect around every corner. Unfortunately, it rained during part of our stay.
Its peak tourist season in Nova Scotia. People were there by the bus loads at Peggy’s Cove.
Peggy’s Cove is picturesque, crowed with tourists, rustic, and has a few places to eat. It doesn’t take long to walk the streets. Had a fabulous seafood chowder at Rhubarb restaurant.
Halifax, Nova Scotia
Halifax was established by the British in 1749 to serve as both a military and a commercial counterweight to the French occupied Louisbourg in Cape Breton.
The worldwide Seven Years’ War broke out primarily between France and England in 1756, but the North American conflict between them, the French and Indian War, started in 1754. The Treaty of Paris, 1763, put an end to the French Colonial presence creating the basis for the modern country of Canada.
Maritime Museum of the Atlantic
The Maritime Museum of the Atlantic was worth going to. There were numerous small boats on site. An incredible number of maritime artifacts and model ships. The Titanic and Halifax Explosion exhibits were well done. Nova Scotia was involved in the recovery of the Titanic dead bodies.
The Halifax Explosion
December 6, 1917 the French ship, Mont Blanc, loaded with explosives, collided with the Norwegian ship, Imo, in Halifax Harbor. The largest man made explosion at that time occurred killing approximately 2,000 people and injuring more than 9,000. More than 900 eye injuries occurred, many blinded in one or both eyes. This quilt was made to depict the explosion.
Many from the Boston medical community came to help the injured. In thanks and commemoration, Nova Scotia sends a Christmas tree to Boston annually.
Piracy
It was considered so serious a crime that the penalty was not only death but also a ritualistic execution. A special Admiralty Court tried and executed pirates. After they were hanged on the beach between high and low tide, their bodies were tarred and hung in chains called a “gibbet” at the harbour entrance as a warning to other mariners.
Theodore Tugboat
It was a children’s television series that began in 1989 inspired by the Halifax waterfront. Its about the adventures of Theodore and his many floating friends in The Big Harbour, where all the boats have their own personality and role in the harbour community.
Truro
Remains of the old railroad bridge over the Shubenacadie River.
Truro is the hub of Nova Scotia. We stayed at the Scotia Pines Campground. 50 amp, water, and sewer. No view. Internet barely useable. After 4 days, someone finally fixed it while we were pulling out. Too many trees to use the Dish satellite. We mostly stayed here to explore the Tidal Bore. Its when the incoming tide reverses the flow of several outgoing rivers into the Bay of Fundy. It was also a halfway point to our next location.
Shubenacadie River Runners
We were lucky and able to reserve spots with River Runners on a sunny day with a very high tide to raft the tidal bore. Despite the attractive suit, we got soaked!!
What an incredible experience. The Shubenacadie River starts out as a low level, muddy, slow moving river with numerous sand/mud islands. As the Tidal Bore approaches, you can hear it. It was an approximate 2-3 feet tall wave. As the inflowing water covers the sandbars, turbulent areas/rapids are created, providing an amazing wild ride. Within 3 hours, the tide rose over 40 feet and the rapids disappeared.
Victoria Park
It is a 400 acre woodland park with very nice trails. There is a brook that flows through it with a couple of waterfalls. A treat in the middle of Truro.
Spencer’s Island
The attraction for us was to have an ocean view and watch the amazing Bay of Fundy tides. Spencer’s Island was formerly one of Nova Scotia’s premier shipbuilding ports.
More than 30 vessels were constructed outdoors on the cold, wind blown beach by skilled shipbuilders of the Fundy Shore. The Amazon was built at Spencer’s Island in 1861. After working the trade routes for 7 years, she was sold to a New Yorker who refitted and renamed her the Mary Celeste. On November 7th, 1872, the Mary Celeste, a 100ft. Brigantine, set sail from New York City, commanded by Captain Benjamin Briggs. The ship was bound for Genoa, Italy with a cargo of 1100 bottles of pure alcohol. Also on board was the captain’s wife Sarah, their two year old daughter Sophia Matilda, and a crew of seven men. Twenty seven days later, on December 4th, the Mary Celeste was discovered drifting aimlessly in the North Atlantic by the crew of the Dei Grata, also out of New York. Concerned by the Mary Celeste’s erratic course and lifeless decks, the Captain of the Dei Grata sent a boarding party to investigate. They encountered nothing but silence. The Mary Celeste was undamaged. There was no signs of piracy. Doors and windows were left open, and the Captain’s and crew’s quarters were undisturbed. Coats were still on hooks, tobacco lay ready for smoking on the tables, and loose change was left lying about. The Captain, his crew, and family had vanished without a trace. Unable to solve the mystery of the missing crew, two sailors from the Dei Grata sailed the vessel to Gibraltar. A judicial hearing followed during which there were accusation of murder and betrayal. Yet the disappearance of the crew of the Mary Celeste could not be explained. Captain Benjamin Briggs, his wife, daughter, and crew were never seen again. For ten more years the Mary Celeste continued to sail in the North Atlantic. However, she was plagued with misfortune. The owners found it difficult to find a crew for the now infamous ghost ship. In 1885, the Mary Celeste was lost on a reef off Haiti.
There were 36 feet tides during our stay. These photos were taken at 1 hour increments.
Old Shipyard Beach Campground
Our site overlooked the Bay of Fundy.
We had 50 amp service, 45 psi water pressure, and sewer. The pad was a little muddy and not level, but large. Good Dish satellite reception. Internet was very slow, but would eventually load a webpage.
There is a working lighthouse adjacent to the property. Spencer’s Island Lighthouse was built at a cost of $645.87 using day labor and was activated on July 15, 1904. The tower, constructed of wood, stands thirty-three feet tall from its base to the ventilator atop the lantern room. The lighthouse was discontinued in 1987, but the Spencers Island Community Association acquired the tower from the government. The lighthouse opened to the public in 1991 featuring displays on the town’s shipbuilding heritage. Major restorative work on the tower was undertaken in 1995 and 1996 thanks to local fund-raising projects. In 2006, permission was received from the Canadian Coast Guard to reactivate the light in the tower. Brittany worked a summer job there providing very good history about the lighthouse and the shipyard.
There were all sorts of RV’s and tents.
We saw Bald Eagles everyday on the beach.
Jake loved exploring the beach at low tide.
Cape d’Or Lighthouse
We drove to the Cape d’Or lighthouse and the Cape Chignecto Provincial Park. The lighthouse was established in 1875 to warn mariners of the tidal rips. Its now automated and the old keeper’s house is a restaurant.
Driftwood beach. The stacks of driftwood seemed to go on for about a mile.
Wild Caraway Restaurant
Its an old home that is also a 2 room B&B, relaxed, friendly, and a colorful atmosphere. The seafood pasta lunch was absolutely delicious.
